A couple of months ago on Facebook, a fellow wine writer known as Sierra Wine Guy posted, “Why does Mourvèdre get treated like a third wheel? Nobody puts Mourvèdre in the corner.”
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Tag: wine
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Mourvèdre and its fans
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Take a SIP
“Most impactful was that regardless of circumstances, human connection matters most. Madrigal’s wines are the threads that unite people, whether it be during a pandemic, a celebration, or everyday life. Chris Madrigal and his family personify ‘Nuestra Sangre,’ the bond that holds everyone together, especially in this unprecedented time of challenge.”
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Harvest Moon Winery: Punk Rock and Cool Zin by Joe Campbell
On a cold autumn evening smack dab in the middle of harvest in the Russian River Valley of Sonoma, California, you will find Randy Pitts crushing grapes and rocking out to old-school, punk rock legends like Pennywise and NOFX.
“Music motivates us. It inspires us with the little notes that dance around in our head through our workday,” said Randy. “I brought punk rock concepts to growing grapes and making wine. In other words, cool-climate, elegant zinfandel from the Russian River Valley? @#$& yeah. People did not really understand it for years. They had to have it in their glass to find out if it was for them or not.”
Growing up in Sonoma, the winery property was considered to be on the wrong side of the tracks. According to Randy, back in 1975, there was a demarcation line on Highway 101 between the sophisticated people and the country folks. “I grew up watching people work extremely hard building stuff, riding our farm tractor, and being outside in the garden. That was our playground.”
Randy attended business school in San Francisco, thinking he would leave the farming life behind when in October of 1999, he had an early-life crisis and headed home. His father had just retired and was sitting there in his bathrobe staring at Randy. “Both of us were wondering what the heck am I going to do? My mother suggested I take over the farm and responsibilities of the modest eight acres planted on the property. That is how it all started,” said Randy.
Under the tutelage of Bruce Rector, master enologist, Randy produced wines with great balance. One of the key focus areas was cool-climate zinfandels. “Farmed with integrity and intensity, zinfandel can be quite incredible, particularly from coastal regions like the Russian River Valley, with floral perfume, rose petal, black pepper, and stone fruit qualities. I guess I’m applying principles of pinot noir to zinfandel,” said Randy. He also pulls massive amounts of leaves and drops 20-30% of the fruit at veraison, resulting in a more elegant style of zinfandel that is intentionally aromatic, surprisingly light, and has a zesty, peppery finish that still allows the juiciness of the fruit to linger.
Randy is also crafting a series of sparkling wines. In 2013, he bought his own equipment. “I remember both fondly and frighteningly the day the equipment arrived because I had no idea how to operate it.” Harvest Moon now makes a tiny lot of four to five sparkling wines each year ranging from a sparkling gewürztraminer to a shiraz-style, sparkling petite sirah.
Over the years, Randy has applied a “less is more approach” to both grape growing and his wine craft. “When you extract less color and tannin—and play a little bit lighter hand on the sugar levels— during the winemaking process, each variety has its own floral, perfume, and pedal expression,” noted Randy. “We’ve been making wine for 6,000 years. We don’t need to reinvent the wheel.”
Recently, Randy has also been buying grapes from Lodi, California, which offer a plusher style of wine without the higher alcohol levels. “It has been fun to make them. They are restaurant-ready wines, aka wine cocktails. Most of my reds in the past would sit 20 months in barrel, two years in bottle and age gracefully for a decade. My barbera and malbec— these are turn and burn baby. Pull the cork and go,” said Randy.
Things have not always been easy— the financial crisis of 2008 led to some dark times and a loss of about 35% of the customer base, which has instilled in a Randy a sense of resolve. As storm clouds envelope the globe from the COVID-19 outbreak, Harvest Moon has returned “back to basics,” while also exploring new technologies to virtually drive the business.
As 2020 brings a whole new set of challenges for Randy and many winemakers out there, I think of the lyrics from Pennywise’s “Bro Hymn,”
“Ever get the feeling you can’t go on. Just remember whose side that you are on. You have got friends with you till the end. If you are ever in a tough situation. We’ll be there with no hesitation.”
About Writer Joe Campbell
Based out of the Sierra Foothills of California, Joe Campbell, aka Sierra Wine Guy on social media, is an experienced software technology solutions consultant by day while spending his weekends and evenings working on the family farm and ranch properties while providing color commentary as well as insight within the wine industry both from the lifestyle consumer and business segments of the industry.
Bio Courtesy of The Vintner Project.
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The hidden gems of Lake County
There is so much good happening in Lake County that it is worth revealing seven gems from Lower Lake to Lakeport to Upper Lake.
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2017 Biltmore Reserve Cabernet Franc
Biltmore in Asheville, North Carolina, whose French-style château home and surrounding landscaping were designed by architect Richard Morris Hunt and landscaper Frederick Law Olmsted, has been a leader in hospitality and sustainable, field-to-table practices since the estate’s inception in 1895. It continues to operate today as a family-owned, self-sustaining 8000-acre estate and National Historic Landmark. Once the home of Biltmore Dairy Farms, the former dairy was transformed into a winery, opening to the public in 1985. The 35th anniversary of the winery finds it ranked in the top 1% of wine businesses in the United States and the country’s most visited winery at around 600,000 visitors annually. The winery sources grapes from a number of states and appellations to make wines appealing to its large and varied customer base.
However, the estate also has its own small vineyard – originally planted in 1971 – located in valley of the nearby French Broad River. From this humble vineyard, the winery produces a small-lot cabernet franc that sells out quickly every year. A lower-alcohol beauty at 13%, the Biltmore® Reserve Cabernet Franc, North Carolina, shows a mélange of juicy blackberries, baking spices, and sweet vanilla on the palate. Its bright, food-friendly acidity and finely integrated tannins make it an ideal accompaniment to a variety of meats, such as braised beef, roasted pork loin, baked poultry, and venison stew. For those who do not eat meat, pair this wine with mushroom, bean, or lentil dishes. The cabernet franc is also priced attractively for a single-vineyard, limited-release of this caliber, with a suggested retail of $35. Recent awards include a score of 93 points in the Critics Challenge International Wine Competition and Gold at the North Carolina State Fair.
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Patagonia and Pinot
I am excited to share my first story for the Wine section of the Napa Valley Register, “Patagonia is emerging as a notable producer of pinot noir.”
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Wines for the 2019 Holidays and Beyond
As the weather and seasons change, as well as during the holidays, consumers often seize the opportunity to enjoy what wine experts sometimes feature as holiday or seasonal wines. However, I am of the belief that wines do not have to be seasonal in nature. I enjoy food-friendly, versatile wines that are appropriate for all seasons. Below are eight of my favorite selections to enjoy year around: both still and sparkling wines at varying price points, some highly rated by some of the world’s renowned wine critics.
The third week of November 2019, I had the great pleasure of tasting five wines for a Wines of Argentina Twitter tasting led by Christy Canterbury MW, whose topic was “perfect Argentinian wines to pair with vegetarian Thanksgiving dishes.” The two wines from Patagonia will be featured in a forthcoming article. Below are my impressions of the three wines from Mendoza.
2017 Mascota Vineyards Unánine Chardonnay, Argentina ($20 SRP, sample)
This chardonnay hails from high-altitude vineyards in Mendoza, thus, this wine reveals cool-climate characteristics such as ample acidity and bright citrus flavors, especially when chilled. As it warms a bit, one begins to taste sweeter tropical fruits, like pineapple and mango, and the influence of the 30% malolactic fermentation and sur lie aging in French oak for six months, a luxuriously creamy and weighty palate replete with smoky vanilla. If vegetarian and you eat dairy, this wine is calling for a creamy or cheesy dish. If you eat meat, pair this with buttery poultry or shellfish. If you follow scores: Tim Atkin MW, 93 points; Wine Enthusiast, 89 points.2017 Catena Zapata Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay, Mendoza, Argentina ($40 SRP, sample)
Since 1902, four generations of the Catena family have farmed the land and produced wines at all price points. The grapes for this chardonnay are grown at altitudes of around 4000-5000 feet – hence the name Catena Alta – from the family’s “heritage rows” of the Domingo (20%) and Adrianna (80%) Vineyards. The effect of the higher altitudes is very prominent in this chardonnay. The wine is barrel fermented with native, wild yeasts, and 70% goes through malolactic fermentation. The cool-climate fruit flavors of grapefruit, lemon, and lime beautifully complement this production style. I would argue that this wine’s weighty richness and higher-acid citrus profile are substantial and vibrant enough to pair not only “standard” chardonnay protein pairings such as baked salmon, rotisserie poultry, and buttery shellfish, but also a traditional asado or empanadas, for those who prefer white wines. For vegetarians, I recommend foods of that can stand up to the intensity of this chardonnay, such creamy potato, pasta, and pastry dishes, such as vegetable pot pie or a cheesy quiche. Vinous, 91 points.2018 Alfredo Roca Pinot Noir, Mendoza, Argentina ($15 SRP, sample)
The Roca family is a fourth-generation family operating an estate-model winery comprised of 280 acres. This pinot noir is sourced from eight precious acres of vineyards in the southern province of San Rafael, at altitude of around 3000 feet. It shows intensely flavored, tart fruit on the palate, such as cranberry and plum, cradled in cinnamon spice. Recommended food pairings include traditional, rich American Thanksgiving fare with or without meat, anything mushroom, and creamy, cheesy risotto, potato casserole, or vegetarian lasagna.
My November 2019 tastings continued with the following samples from Ferrari Trento, known as “Italy’s most awarded sparkling wine producer,” whose organically certified, sustainably farmed, mountain vineyards are still under the care and control of the Lunelli family’s third generation. In 2019, Ferrari Trento was recognized as the “Sparkling Wine Producer of the Year” at the Champagne & Sparkling Wine World Championships.NV Ferrari Trento Brut, Trento DOC ($26.99 SRP, sample)
This 100% chardonnay, brut is Ferrari Trento’s original, dating back to 1902 when Giulio Ferrari planted the first chardonnay grapes in the Trentino mountains. This is the go-to, classic Italian blanc de blancs, always delicious, elegant, and affordable. A plethora of abundant, fine bubbles carry flavors of bright, crisp apples and biscotti across one’s palate. The acidity of this wine begs for the simplest of salty snacks – including nuts, potato chips, popcorn, and fries – as well as fried chicken and fish, triple-cream cheeses like Brie or Camembert, quiche and other egg dishes, oysters, and smoked salmon.NV Ferrari Trento Brut Rosé, Trento DOC ($35.99 SRP, sample)
You had me at first sip of this richly colorful, bright salmon elixir, with its plentiful, creamy mousse, floral notes, and delightful balance of both sweet and tart red berries, brioche, and mouthwatering acidity. Made from 60% pinot nero (the Italian name for pinot noir) and 40% chardonnay, you cannot go wrong with this highly acclaimed, Italian take on brut rosé. Enjoy this traditional method sparkling wine on its own or with fried foods, charcuterie, fatty pork like lightly seasoned carnitas or pulled pork without sauce, sushi, or pink shellfish such as crab, lobster, and shrimp.
During December 2019, I had the delightful experiences of tasting a wine from Ribera del Duero as well as my first Italian sauvignon blanc and pinot noir hailing from the higher elevations of Alto Adige.2017 Bela Ribera del Duero ($19 SRP, sample)
Recently purchased by iconic Riojan producer, Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (CVNE), Bela, built in 1999 and planted in 2002 mostly to tempranillo, is a 182-acre estate and winery located in the village of Villalba del Duero, in the province of Burgos. According to CVNE, this 100% tempranillo “bring Riojan elegance to the rugged Ribera del Duero region.” This wine is both deeply colored and dark on the palate, with black fruit aromas and flavors. Thanks to only six months of aging in American and French new and one-year-old oak barrels, the wine reveals sweet spice, soft tannins, and an ample mouthfeel. Pair this wine with hearty dishes like grilled or roasted meats, casseroles, or the Ribera del Duero regional favorite, lechazo, roasted lamb.2018 Colterenzio-Schreckbichl Sauvignon PRAIL, Südtirol-Alto Adige ($22 SRP, sample)
Sauvignon blanc vineyards in Alto Adige date back to the nineteenth century, and this example successfully demonstrates this heritage. This wine is floral and herbal on the nose and bright and juicy on the palate, a mélange of citrus, stone, and tropical fruits, think a mixed fruit bowl, but with a weightier mouthfeel and smokiness from some partial oak aging. Its sharp acidity is an ideal accompaniment to chèvre (goat cheese), baked chicken and fish, grilled or sautéed scallops, mussels marinera, raw oysters, and vegetable dishes with artichoke, asparagus, and zucchini. James Suckling, 91 points.2015 Peter Zemmer Rolhüt Pinot Noir, Alto Adige-Südtirol ($18 SRP, sample)
My immediate thought when tasting this wine was, “Wow, this is intense.” It reveals flavors of tart fruits and berries like blackcurrant, sour cherry, cranberry, raspberry, and unripe plum. It sees a total of 18 months of oak aging, 70% in new French oak barrels and the other 30% small French casks that are two to three years old for 12 months, then another six months blended. The result is a pinot noir that is not overly tannic, with just the right amount of spicy oak influence to not overpower the aforementioned fruitiness. I tasted this wine with my baked Atlantic salmon dinner, but this wine can also stand up to red meat dishes like lamb, as well as complement baked, grilled, or roasted pork and poultry. Tasting Panel, 91 points.
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Reimagining Wine Packaging: Why the Wine Industry Needs to Think Outside the Box… and Bottle
I am honored to be one of the contributing writers to this article below, one of a series of articles resulting from the Born Digital Wine Awards with Vinventions #BDWASummit which took place on May 30th to June 1st, 2019 in Liège, Belgium. The event’s purpose was to unite winners and judges from the annual Born Digital Wine Awards to discuss the future of the wine industry through the lens of “Truthfulness.”
Reimagining Wine Packaging: Why the Wine Industry Needs to Think Outside the Box… and Bottle
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Leoni Farms: Winemaker Jon by Joe Campbell
Leoni Farms: Winemaker Jon by Joe Campbell
(no relation to Jon)On many a weekend in the lovely small town of Sutter Creek, California, on Main Street, visitors will walk by the tasting room of Leoni Farms and hear the hearty laugh of Jon Campbell holding court. Conversations will range from television episode recaps of Yellowstone, to politics, to reminding you about how much he detests the Robert Parker point scale. “See this Rolling Rock I’m drinking? It scored a 97,” notes Jon, with a sarcastic smirk. During those summers and long harvests, cheap beer becomes a winemaker’s best friend.
Above the great conversation and Cheers-like ambiance that Leoni Farms provides, a local sense of camaraderie and family permeates the building. After spending ten minutes with Jon, you feel like you have known him for the past 20 years. The Campbells are a fifth-generation family in Amador County. Some of the vineyard plantings on their property go back 50 years.
Jon began his career working in the cellar before moving up to assistant winemaker at Drytown Cellars. He then took a job as a winemaker in Lodi running a processing facility.
Jon would eventually return to his roots in Amador County to start Leoni Farms. Leoni is an old family surname and the farm part of the name is critical as well, because at the end of the day, Jon considers himself a farmer at heart. He indicated he would grow alfalfa if he could make money doing it.
Jon’s wines are a reflection of him: unpretentious and unafraid to try new things. Along with Amador County mainstays like barbera and zinfandel, he has also released interesting varieties like charbono and alicante bouschet.
Blend 16
A blend of 75% cabernet sauvignon, 25% mourvèdre. Released in August. A meaty full bodied wine that is seductive, yet allusive, conjuring up images of sun-drenched Southern Spain while maintaining that beautiful, black-cherry nose. This wine would pair well with a juicy pork loin during a Sunday dinner with family or friends.Humbug Hill Red
100% Zinfandel. 13.9% ABV. A nice, light, cherry red, and restrained Sierra Foothills beauty at a reasonable price point. Throw a couple of burgers and hot dogs on the grill. The Humbug Red is your casual weeknight grilling and chilling companion.Leoni Farms Tasting Room
67 Main Street
Sutter Creek CA 95685
(209) 256-5175
leonifarms@yahoo.com
Hours
Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday 1:00 pm–5:00 pm
Friday and Saturday 11:00 am–6:00 pm
Sunday 11:00 am–5:00 pm
Closed TuesdayAbout Writer Joe Campbell
Based out of the Sierra Foothills of California, Joe Campbell, aka Sierra Wine Guy on social media, is an experienced software technology solutions consultant by day while spending his weekends and evenings working on the family farm and ranch properties while providing color commentary as well as insight within the wine industry both from the lifestyle consumer and business segments of the industry.
Bio Courtesy of The Vintner Project.
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Beth’s Smart Sip: 2017 Artezin Zinfandel, Mendocino County
I dined with friends at The Q Restaurant and Bar in Napa, Califonia, recently. Although I have lived in Napa for over five and a half years, I had never been to the Q. Being a Southern belle, of course I went for one of the signature dishes, the brisket. While my companions and I enjoyed a lovely Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon with dinner, I wished I had brought the 2017 Artezin Zinfandel, Mendocino County (sample; SRP $18) I had tasted the weekend prior.
When I received this wine sample a couple of months ago, I was immediately curious as to why the focus on zinfandel, especially hailing from Mendocino County, not particularly as well known for this grape variety. Winemaker Randle Johnson was kind enough to respond to my question:
When we began Artezin in 2002, we knew Zinfandel was considered unique to the grape/wine world and was essentially the “California Grape.” It was also the most significant heritage/heirloom variety. As such, it needed its own identity, its own “brand” within our organization. After much discussion, we came up with the name “Artezin.” Many varieties, including Zinfandel, were planted throughout Mendocino County. With Artezin, I like to work with family growers to honor the tradition of Zinfandel winemaking that has been established throughout the generations. Most vines I work with are old vine, head pruned and non-irrigated. By 2004, we realized that there were other close (and far flung) heritage varieties like Carignan, Charbono and Petite Sirah. Thus, we expanded our Artezin portfolio to include other varieties, as well as vineyard designated Zinfandels.
I have always been interested in the uniqueness of Mendocino County. On one hand, there is the cool Anderson Valley, where Chardonnay, Pinot and Riesling/Gewurztraminer do exceptionally well. On the other hand, is the warm to hot “central” Mendocino that follows the Highway 101 “corridor,” shielded from the ocean air by the coastal Mayacamas range. Here big red varieties like Cabernet, Syrah, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel excel. I especially like Zinfandels from Mendo because the climate is perfect: warm days & cool nights. They also exhibit classic “zinny” character: red fruits (boysenberry, raspberry, cherry, pomegranate), black/white pepper, exotic spices, and the ever elusive “brambles!!” As an additional bonus, Mendocino Zinfandels are usually good values.
Another focus of Artezin is its commitment to sourcing fruit from local grape growers who practice sustainable farming. In the case of the 2017 vintage of zinfandel, Johnson and his team acquired fruit from farmers such as Peter Chevalier, Dennis Hunt, Cherrie Laviletta, Darin Colombini, Bree and Kevin Klotter, Larry and Doreen Venturi, Paul Dolan, Ken and Diane Wilson, Eddie Graziano, and Charlie Sawyer, a veritable who’s who of Mendocino County farming. Artezin, the artisan, er, art of zin, collaboration between these notable farmers and Johnson, has rendered Mendocino County zinfandel accessible, approachable, affordable, and most importantly, palatably appealing.
A wine and food writing colleague, Kristy Harris, and I tasted the Artezin together, but without food. It is everything one seeks in a zinfandel: an initial pop on the palate of bold, dark berries, especially blueberry and blackberry; a touch of food-friendly acidity; and a remarkable peppery-cayenne finish. The only thing missing was a hearty meat dish, such as the aforementioned brisket, pulled pork, or sausage. This wine is big on quality, flavor, and value, a trifecta of “yes, please.” Lesson learned. The next time I dine at The Q, I will have Artezin Zinfandel, Mendocino County, in tow as Beth’s Smart Sip.
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